Way out on the most westerly part of the south-west of Western Australia,  near Cape Naturaliste we located Quay West  Bunker Bay a very lovely resort with stunning apartments and notable for something unusual in WA. Unlike most coastal places in this state, here the sun and moon rise (rather than set) over the water. The resort’s restaurant is therefore appropriately called Other Side of the Moon.

Next morning of course we headed for the lighthouse that marks the tip of Cape Naturaliste  and dropped in at a place we had read about, Bunkers Beach  Cafe, open and airy and right on the beach. It was filled with people were enjoying the view with their leisurely breakfasts and of course I checked the menu and was not surprised to find good regional foods there too. I was excited to think we could dine there that night (it was Friday) but then found they were not opening through winter in the evenings. Understandable, as it is quite remote, and the nights were cold.

Back in Dunsborough we stopped at Yallingup Coffee for one of the best coffees of the trip. The aroma of freshly roasted beans had lured many inside, while others sat outside at tables on the grass, soaking up the sunshine.

Thus  revived we headed south to Yallingup itself, equipped with what we  thought were good directions for finding Yallingup Woodfired Bread only to miss whatever signs there were.

So instead we half-heartedly headed for Simmos Icecreamery . I say that because I imagined it to be a mass-produced kid-centric place, but instead was pleasantly surprised. We found a bright and airy cafe and ice cream bar with dozens of flavours. The exuberant staff who coached us through more tastings than we needed assured us the ice cream is made from local south-west milk.

Everyone talks about Margaret River  to describe the corner of WA now so well-known for its wines, yet when you look at a map, it is dense with dozens of small towns (most ending with the ubiquitous ‘up’) and indeed the greatest concentration of wineries seems to be at Cowaramup.

We prowled along as slowly as we dared, enjoying the paddocks and bushland amongst vines, the graceful West Australian grass trees and occasional bunches of winery signs at intersections. There were so many familiar names that at times we felt like we were driving through an upmarket restaurant’s wine list.

A stop at Olio Bello at Cowaramup was essential. This is one of the premier olive oil producers in the region with a stunning display room and now a cafe. The magnificent aroma of the heaping plates of pasta headed for tables almost diverted us from our planned meeting with someone  later in Margaret River.

Another important stop was at Margaret River Venison where from the road we could see magnificent red deer grazing in the paddocks. Inside the large showroom several chilled cabinets held an astounding range of venison cuts and smallgoods, while other shelves were packed with craft items, jams and pickles produced by this very busy and talented family.

Finally we arrived in Margaret River itself and I browsed in The Good Olive, a gift shop with, of course, plenty of local produce, then walked up the street to an even foodier location, The Larder absolutely packed with gourmet items.

By now it was mid-afternoon and so we headed north again, dropping in at the Margaret River Dairy Company where we tasted a range of cheeses made there. I am glad that these are ‘exported’ to other states, as they are far too good for the rest of Australia  to miss out on.

At Cowaramup the sign for Cowaramup Meat Specialists had us braking again and we hurried in to meet with Shane Blownt, chef-turned-butcher specialising ‘regional and exotic meats’.

Then, just a little way further we found the place people had been telling us all day that we had to visit. Once we located the Margaret River Providore (related to the Margaret River Chocolate Company) we could see why. The elegant and very attractive showroom is a bonanza for anyone looking for anything from the region. A veggie garden (organic) at the back and cafe-restaurant at one end completes its appeal. We left with bread, dukkah and olive oil with one last place on my list.

Yes, we were going to try again to find Yallingup Woodfired Bread and this time we succeeded – that is after we knew to look for ground-level signs with a small flame logo. It was almost dark when we arrived, but baker Gotthard Bauer and his team was still feeding the last of the day’s loaves into the big oven. He cheerfully talked to us  as a steady stream of lucky locals-in-the-know arrived to buy a just-baked loaf for dinner. Of course we had to do the same, and now it seemed after a day of tasting and sampling that a simple supper in our lovely room at Quay West was all we needed. Some Margaret River Dairy cheese and some fresh fruit completed our gourmet little feast.

Next morning we were off early and I was very excited about the day’s plans as there was an extra special treat in store for us. In fact the entire trip had been pinned around this Saturday morning.

But first a call in at coastal Busselton where the famous two kilometre-long jetty, or what is left after it was damaged by a storm in the eighties, remains a major landmark.

However our real destination this day was Manjimup a former timber milling town, which is now becoming known for its primary industries: orchards, vineyards, olive groves, and (the real surprise) truffles.

First however, we stopped by the farmer’s markets as we had luckily coincided with them. We found a small market with everything located in a circular building, and it only took a little while to see the various jams, honeys and handmade soaps,  the seedlings and herbs, local apples and vegetables. One man told us he would soon have goats’ cheeses available, and several reminded us it was winter. In summer there is more variety, they assured us.

By then it was time to hurry to the Wine & Truffle Company. Our briefing notes have told us that we must be there at 12.15pm sharp as the dogs have a routine and we cannot be late. No one dares ask how the dogs know the precise time, but we get there early just in case.

We meet several of the dogs kept specifically for this job. Most are ex-quarantine dogs whose noses are their livelihood, and no doubt they’re happier now to sniff for truffles not illicit substances. Well, I would be, anyway.

The day is chilly but not wet and we crunch along between the smallish trees (only planted a decade ago) the dogs ahead of us sniffing carefully. They turn up many truffles, some smaller ones will go for export to Hong Kong where they prefer the daintier ones, to some quite large and very valuable specimens.

Truffles sell for $3000 a kilogram, so we rule out taking any samples home! The day turns out to be every bit as much a treat as I’d expected and we finish with a picnic of Yallingup Woodfired bread, some cheese and wine and olive oil – and of course some finely shaved slices of a fresh truffle. Bliss!

From here it is back to the coast by another route, through Balingup once known only for its legendary ‘magic mushrooms’ in the seventies. There is still a Mushroom Shop there, but the town is now also home to Heritage Country Cheese (sadly closed by the time we get there) and another provedore-cafe called Taste of Balingup with a great feel to it, and absolutely living up to its name. We had also been told about Fre-Jac French Bakery so made sure we located it in a side street and found it humming with activity as a large group was booked into the restaurant that night. The owners, a delightful French couple, nevertheless graciously made time to talk with us and it was obvious why the place was so popular. To have something like this in a tiny country town is a true treat.

One last stop at Raw Energy, the vibrant fruit and vegetable shopfront for Westland Orchards at Mullalyup, a few kilometres out of Balingup, and then it was time to head for our room for the night at the All Seasons Sanctuary Golf Resort in Bunbury.

I remember Bunbury from my childhood as a rather uninspiring port town. I would never have reckoned on it becoming the smart, bustling, progressive town it is today with a stylish waterfront, good restaurants and plenty of shops. I popped my head in at a couple of restaurants which I had been advised to see: Mojo’s Aristos, and Vat Two, and was highly impressed. The Farmer’s Market was closed on Sundays, but the word was it is the place to be to pick up local produce.

Finally the trip around the south-west was almost over and we began to head for Perth as we were due there that evening. South of the town of Harvey we stopped off at Harvey Cheese. The shopfront selling a range of wonderful cheeses and related foods is cramped, but we bumped into the owner, Robert St Duke, a key person with the Harvest Highway initiative that is aimed at encouraging people to explore a large part of the south-west along the highway and to sample the produce. He showed us the spacious room next door, which soon will ease the congestion.

Before leaving town we took a look too at the Visitor Centre & Moo Shoppe. This information centre has a specialised corner filled (as the name suggests) with cow-abilia, in deference to the major industry of the area.

From here we crossed to the coast and travelled north through Mandurah. stopping briefly at The Mediterranean, Dawesville  an upmarket restaurant at a residential complex, where we met with the chef, also keen to promote local produce.

Finally the loop was completed. We had returned to Perth. I had notebooks crammed with information, a suitcase bulging with pamphlets, brochures and business cards – and a huge appreciation for the energy and dedication and vision of the dozens of people we had met in the past week.