We arrived at Paringa Bed & Breakfast, just on sundown, but with still enough light to realise what a beautiful setting it has on a bend of the mighty Murray River. Breaker Morant passed by here in 1899, and today the homestead still stands. There are also several stone cottage-like suites, now, meticulously decorated with antiques, open gas fireplaces, polished timber floors, private spa baths, fresh flowers, port and chocolates, and each with a tiny porch overlooking that wonderful view.

For dinner we were taken to Ruston’s Rose Garden & Visitor Centre at Renmark. This area’s climate is perfect for roses and from September to July the main street is brilliant with blooms. Ruston’s Rose Garden is the largest rose garden in Australia and hosts a glorious mix of modern and heritage roses of all kinds and colours. The newly opened Ruston’s Rose Garden Visitor Centre offers a coffee and gift shop with a display of classic vehicles.

Next day we headed off to Kingston on Murray and Banrock Station Part proceeds of every Banrock Station bottle and cask sold in Australia is donated to Landcare projects around the country. This amazing place is working to conserve the fragile wetlands which surround it and in the Wine and Wetland Centre we were shown how the they are being rejuvenated and are once more attracting bird life back to the area.

After a tour of a small part of the station we came back to lunch on the outdoor deck overlooking this revitalised land. I was particularly glad to see that the entire menu featured local produce, and it was of course delicious.

The meandering Murray, flanked by tall limestone cliffs and huge river red gums, cuts through this entire region and we stopped occasionally to enjoy the stunning views on our drive west. 

At Mannum we dropped in to visit some new and very luxurious cottages, Riverview Rise Retreats poised on the Murray River escarpment with magnificent 180-degree views overlooking the river and township of Mannum.

Then it was on to our accommodation for the night, River Dream Boatel, one of the most unusual places we have stayed. Designed by architects who specialise in high-quality hotel design, the Boatel evolved from many years of experience holidaying on houseboats and is a total re-think of boat design. By now all we had energy for was a barbecue dinner on board, and then blissful slumber in a stateroom downstairs.

Next day, while the rest of our group checked out The Pretoria Hotel in Mannum, for lunch we headed towards the coast to the Fleurieu Peninsula region.

The Fleurieu Peninsula is South Australia’s favourite holiday playground. Just an hour south of Adelaide, the region is an ideal day-trip destination and perfect for extended beach holidays. There are a host of experiences for all ages and interests, from wine tasting in McLaren Vale to whale watching or surfing at great beaches along the southern coast between Victor Harbor and Goolwa. The region boasts a stunning stretch of Southern Ocean coastline and a temperate climate. 

We had booked in for lunch at The Hundred Eaves located in the old church built in 1862 at  Sellicks Beach. It really is in a paddock and there are cows and an almond orchard nearby and an organic veggie garden at the back of the restaurant which contributes to the largely organic menu. This restaurant is gaining a strong following of dedicated foodlovers who make the trip at weekends just to dine here. And no wonder as chef Julian’s creative flair and taste for wholesome food and bush tucker flavours are present in each dish that exits his kitchen.

After eating far more than we should have we picked our way across the toe of the peninsula to Middleton and our bed for the night at Beach Huts Bed & Breakfast. Here a collection of cottages arranged like a miniature village have been painted to resemble quaint beach huts.

Dinner that night was in Blue’s Restaurant, on site, and just metres from our beach hut. Here we were served a stunning degustation menu of local produce – venison, squid, local cheeses, amongst many more delicious offerings – in the large casually-chic room.

Next morning, the last of this part of the tour, Gordon and I drove on to nearby Goolwa, a tiny town at the mouth of the Murray, which has now yet another claim to fame. It received the honour of being named, in March 2007, the first Australian Cittaslow (slow city) and indeed the first outside Europe.

There were many requirements that Goolwa had to fulfil to achieve this prestigious status and we spoke about it with organiser Lyn Clark in her delightful doll shop in town. 

It seems a few years ago a group of locals saw this as a way to save the town and give it a new meaning. Cittaslow towns must have a population of under 50,0000 and be prepared to promote the principles of the Slow Food movement which protects the heritage, traditions and cultures associated with food. But more than this, Cittaslow towns must recognise unique local products, festivals, heritage and local traditions.

Later, after a walk across the bridge to nearby Victor Harbour’s Granite Island it was time for lunch at the Flying Fish Cafe, Port Elliot, which overlooks the sands of Horseshoe Bay. This former beach kiosk is now an enchanting cafe with a seasonal menu. And as you would expect, the catch of the day is highly recommended. Of course that was our choice too, but left much sooner than we wanted to, as we had a long trip ahead of us, north to the Barossa, and another very special meal in store that night.