BACON and HAM  (also Gammon)

Supposedly Genghis Khan's men at one time left a side of pork lying forgotten by the seashore. The next day they discovered that the side which had been in touch with the salty sand was pink and did not spoil. Next time, you could be sure that they turned the meat so that both sides were treated. This discovery freed them to travel more swiftly and pillage longer, which may not have 'saved the bacon' of the local residents.

Curing of today's bacons and hams is strictly supervised but bacon may contain as much as 44% fat and a 70g serving will have  around 1500mg sodium. Ham may have even more fat, up to 49%, but a little over half the salt. And if you've been wondering what gammon is, it is just hot ham, otherwise identical to regular ham. People on low-fat and low -sodium diets need to be particularly careful of both meats, trimming off visible fat and draining the cooked meat thoroughly.

An alternative is turkey ham which is 93% fat-free. There is also a concern about nitrates and nitrites used as preservatives for cured meats as they have been linked to some forms of cancer.

BAKING POWDER and CARB SODA (Baking Soda and Bicarbonate of Soda)

Baking powder is actually a compound of cream of tartar and bicarbonate of soda and is added to cake and biscuit recipes to make the result lighter textured. American recipes often call for double acting baking powder which releases carbon dioxide both in the mixing and baking stages.

Both substances contain a sizeable amount of sodium (baking powder has 340mg per teaspoon, carb soda has 810mg per teaspoon) so people on low-sodium diets should look for salt-free baking powder or should use an alternative.

Other ways to raise cakes and breads:

• yeast can raise teabreads unless the mixture is very sweet or fatty. Use about l tablespoon of dry yeast to every 3 cups of flour or dry ingredients, and allow time to rise before putting the mixture in the oven
• stiffly beaten egg whites or yolks may be gently folded into light sponge mixtures

BANANA

Technically a berry, bananas are one of the world's favourite fruits and are said by the Koran to have been the 'apple' offered to Adam by Eve in the Garden of Eden. That pair would most probably agree with the Malay proverb 'the banana doesn't bear twice' meaning once bitten, twice shy. It is actually the tallest herb in the world growing to around ten metres in height.

Bananas can be used in a variety of ways – mashed for babyfood or sandwiches, pureed in 'smoothies', baked or barbecued in their skins, flambéed, halved in banana splits, or sliced to accompany curries or salads. A close relative, the plantain, is starchier and not suitable to eat raw – best to bake it whole, or deep-fry the slices.

Brown speckles on the skin only mean a banana is ripe, and refrigerating it, while it may cause the skin to go entirely black, does not affect the flesh. Exposed flesh will darken on contact with the air, but brushing with lemon juice will protect it. Over-ripe bananas may be used up in cakes, muffins or fritters, or the mashed flesh may be frozen in small amounts to be used later in baking.

BARLEY

Barley, an ancient grain, was eaten for potency, vigour and strength by Roman gladiators. Regular soldiers were given daily rations of wheat though, and only cowards, who no doubt were thought to need it, were singled out to receive the less palatable and obviously different barley rations.

The people of Pakistan call it 'medicine for the heart' and only lately have claims of the value of barley bran as a weapon against cholesterol made this seem true. Pearl barley has had this important bran removed, so instead it is better to use bran flakes, grits or flour, or to add the bran separately. Gluten sensitive people should be aware that barley contains gluten and those with sensitivities to other grains may find that barley may also cause problems.

Barley water, the cooled liquid remaining after boiling whole barley, was once given routinely to invalids as it was thought to aid recovery. Today barley is better added to breads or used risotto-style in pilafs or casseroles. It may be cooked like brown rice, one cup barley to three of water and takes over an hour until tender, yielding about 3 1/2 cups.

BEANS

Pythagoras, the Greek philosopher, sage and mathematician, forbad his soldiers to eat broad beans, because he thought they caused disease. A small minority of people have 'favism', a sensitivity to them, and perhaps Pythagoras was a sufferer because he allowed himself to be captured and killed rather than escape through a field of them. The Romans dried the beans and used them as voting counters - white beans for yes, black for no. Both colours make good sense nutritionally though, for the dozens of types of beans are good sources of minerals, soluble fibre (thought to help reduce blood cholesterol) and protein and can be used in a variety of ways.

Beans may be soaked overnight then finished by cooking the next day, or you can do it all in one day by placing them in a large pan with plenty of unsalted water – salting causes the beans to harden and take longer to cook– then bringing them to the boil. Turn off the heat and allow them to sit, covered for 1 1/2 hours or more, then bring to the boil again and simmer for another hour or until the beans are tender. If flatulence is a problem after eating beans, try discarding that initial soaking or cooking water, thought to contain the rogue enzyme responsible for this discomfort, and proceed with fresh water for the second step.

• Adzuki beans (also called aduki and azuki) are small reddish beans which, when cooked, have a sweet flavour. They are often used as fillings in Asian desserts and breads, but can be used in stirfries, soups  and other dishes.

• Black beans, popular in Chinese cookery, are small, shiny black beans and are most often sold canned, already cooked. In this form they are very salty and should be rinsed before use.

• Black-eyed beans are often called for in US (particularly southern) recipes. They are small and cream-coloured with a black spot.

• Blue peas are not so common here but are known as 'mushy peas' in England because they cook down to a mush. They have a bluer colour than dried green peas.

• Borlotti beans are speckled red beans, available fresh in season, and very like the smaller saluggia bean.

• Broad beans or fava beans, come from the Middle East, and are also available fresh in season. Dried they are large and flat and brownish, turning a dull grey-green when cooked.

• Brown beans are ideal in Dutch bean dishes and are brown but much like a haricot bean.

• Cannelini beans are small and white and most often used in Italian dishes. They are very similar to the Great Northern Bean used in the USA.

• Chickpeas (garbanzos) are used in Middle Eastern, Spanish and French cookery and are rough textured, round and pea-shaped.

• Haricot beans are small and white and are vital to the French cassoulet as well as commercial baked beans.

• Lentils vary in colour from tiny red ones through yellowish dhal to larger brown, sometimes called green, lentils. They do not need soaking and cook in about 30-40 minutes.

• Lima beans, large, flat and white, are sometimes called butter beans and are ideal in soups and casseroles.

• Mung beans are shiny small green beans, ideal for sprouting at home, and the split ones cook into a dhal common in Indian cookery.

• Pinto beans are often used in Mexican cookery, and sometimes called 'Mexican strawberries'. They are plump and pink with darker speckled markings, not unlike the larger borlotti beans.

• Red kidney beans are shiny, red and kidney shaped. They have a floury texture when cooked and are ideal for Mexican cookery.

• Soya beans are perhaps the most versatile of all beans and are processed in dozens of ways. They are small and round and a creamy colour, although a rarer black variety is available.

• Split peas may be green or yellow and cook more quickly than most dried beans, becoming mushy and making them ideal for soups (such as ham and split pea) or to thicken stews or casseroles.

BEEF

Last year we each apparently consumed an average of 36.4kg of beef, we are told by the Bureau of Statistics and while red meat has had bad press over the years, the newer lean varieties that have been developed mean that cholesterol is often as low as the more traditional lean meats – chicken and fish.

Today's nutritionists, rather than excluding meat entirely, favour a 'meat to the side of the plate' regime, where meat is used more as a garnish, a flavour enhancer or an adjunct to the more beneficial carbohydrates in a meal. Rather than the more traditional 125g-250g serving, 30-60g per person might be a better choice. But how can you do it?

• Freeze portions of trim beef and slice very thinly without thawing, then add to vegetable stirfries, rice or pasta for an instant and balanced meal.

• Meatballs or rissoles may be 'extended' by using equal quantities of cooked barley or brown rice, rolled oats or wholemeal breadcrumbs. Chopped mushrooms add a juicy 'meaty' feel and can stand in for extra meat, but you will need to add some breadcrumbs or an egg to bind the mixture.

• Thinly sliced cooked beef that has been warmed in the oven or microwave or lightly sauteed in a non-stick pan can be tossed through main dish salads

BEETROOT

For centuries the only part of beetroot, related to spinach and swiss chard, that was eaten was the leaves. Like any green leafy vegetable, they are rich in calcium and vitamin A, but the rich red (an unusual colour in the vegetable kingdom) root was left alone.

Try it grated raw in sandwiches and salads, but eat it immediately as its colour will dye other foods used with it if left too long. In Europe a cousin with a white root is used to provide sugar and even the red is sweet and delicious, although super-low in kilojoules (30kJ per 25g). Beetroot may be eaten grated, cubed or sliced as a hot vegetable and a little grated orange rind will bring out its earthy flavour. You can puree it and add to cakes or muffins, and in chocolate cakes it adds a rich colour. To cook, keep it whole, untrimmed and unpeeled.

Chop the leaves off leaving a couple of centimetres of stems at the top otherwise the colour will cook out. When it is tender (after about 20-30 minutes depending on size) and cool enough to handle, the skin, top and roots will slip off easily. You may want to wear rubber gloves as the colour will temporarily stain your hands.

BOK CHOY and CHINESE GREENS

There are an increasing number of varieties of greens available in fruit and vegetable markets and many can be used interchangeably. They are all members of the brassica or cruciferous family and as such are valuable in the diet. Some say that this is essential to helping the body ward of cancers and other diseases of the digestive tract. They contain good amounts of vitamins A, B and C, as well as potassium, iron and calcium. All cabbages keep well if refrigerated.

Choose firm, crisp heads and use them in stirfries, sliced thinly to add to meat, vegetable or rice dishes and to substitute for regular cabbage in coleslaw. Chinese cabbage has an interesting mild celery flavour that works well in combination with pineapple in a salad or stirfry, and is delicious lightly braised. Add the chopped green leaves of the more leafy varieties to any Asian meat or vegetable dish, adding them just before serving and cooking them only for a couple of minutes. They can be cooked to substitute for spinach or cabbage too if you like.

BRAN

Bran is a general term to describe the coarse outer cellulose layer surrounding most grains. At one time most bran was routinely removed in the milling process to provide the consumer with white flour and polished grains. Later the nutrients found in the germ (also lost in milling) were replaced in bread but it was some time before nutritionists realised the benefits of fibre in the diet, believing it to be most beneficial in helping the body cope with excess cholesterol. For a time wheat bran was seen as the complete answer, but more recently  the benefits of barley, rice and oatbran have been recognised.

Each has a slightly different nutritional composition and underlines the reason why today we are advised to eat a variety of simply prepared, unrefined foods. It should be stored in a cool dry place. Bran can be returned to the diet in a number of ways:

• sprinkled over breakfast cereal
• used instead of or with breadcumbs for crumbing foods to be fried
• added to bread, cake and biscuit mixtures
• added to streusel or crumble toppings for cakes, pies and desserts

BREAD

Bread is one of the most basic foods known to man and every culture has its own distinct preference  from the flatbreads of India and Mexico – tortillas and chapattis – to the steamed buns of Asia, and the more familiar yeasted breads of the western world. The simplest 'bread' consists of flour and liquid, mixed and cooked by heat whether it be a hot flat stone or an oven.

The various ingredients most often used in breadmaking each have a specific function: yeast allows the bread to rise and form light airy holes in the framework; a strong flour makes the bread less likely to crumble; fats and oils make the bread more tender and less chewy; salt gives flavour and contributes to texture; sugar also provides flavour and helps the yeast to work more quickly; the liquid, of course, allows the mixture to be combined. Any one of these components may be left out, and many, many others may be added, allowing an almost infinite number of variations.

Depending entirely on the ingredients, the nutritional value of bread will also vary enormously, but even white bread, once damned as worthless, is a good source of carbohydrate, starch and minerals which may be better absorbed than those in wholemeal bread. Many commercial breads are 'enriched' in some way and even some white breads are now adding fibre. Some breads contain sodium (salt) in a relatively high proportion and most contain mould inhibitors and other chemicals. Carefully read labels and compare brands.

BROCCOLI

Another member of the large brassica family, broccoli was hated by at least one American president but adored by Catherine de Medici who brought it with her to France from Italy in the mid l6th century. Nevertheless it is an important source of vitamins (A, C, E and folate) fibre, calcium and iron. Prolonged cooking may destroy its vitamin C so broccoli is best used raw, blanched (t

ossed into boiling water for a minute or two, then drained) or stir-fried quickly. Choose heads that are firm and solid green with no yellow patches. Why is this vegetable (along with other members of the cabbage family) believed to help prevent cancer and other serious diseases? According to "The Healing Foods" (Patricia Hausman and Judith Benn Hurley, Dell Publishing l989)

• it is an excellent source of beta-carotene
• it is a good source of fibre
• it contains vitamin C (one cup has more than 2 1/2 times the RDA)
• it is one of the best plant sources of calcium
• it is a member of the cabbage family (brassicas)
• it contains almost no fat

If you are not in the habit of using broccoli try it first cut very thinly or in small florets (little flower-heads) either raw or blanched and added into salads, quiches, vegetable pies, soups, stirfries, fried rice or omelettes. Weight-watchers could add it to their carrot and celery stick baskets to nibble on between meals as it has a very low 45kJ per 60g.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

A relative of the cabbage, see broccoli to learn about its goodness and value to the body. Brussels sprouts, originally thought to have been cultivated in Belgium, are not everybody's choice as their flavour is much stronger. Best in winter, the tiny green heads keep well refrigerated and, if you enjoy the flavour, can be added anywhere you would use cabbage. If the outer leaves become yellow, just strip them off before cooking. They may be lightly steamed whole, but cut an X in the stems to let them cook evenly. Alternatively they may be quartered and steamed or stir-fried. Toss them in a light Hollandaise sauce or with toasted slivered almonds for a great vegetable side-dish, or chill them and serve with a dill vinaigrette as a salad.

BUCKWHEAT

No relation to wheat and technically not even a grain (it's a grass-seed, a member of the dock and rhubarb family) buckwheat is a valuable addition to anyone's diet. One of its main nutrients is rutin (sometimes called vitamin P) and is valuable for helping with all things vascular. 

Buckwheat was brought to Europe by the Crusaders and was called Saracen corn. Its name literally means 'beech wheat', because the grains  are shaped like the nuts of the beech tree. Buckwheat flour or crushed buckwheat may be added to cakes, biscuits or bread in small quantities or you can use it to make a traditional eastern European dish called kasha. Simply place l cup whole dry buckwheat in a saucepan and stir until becoming brown, add an egg and stir until dry looking, then add 2 cups liquid - stock, vegetable juice or soup - and stir until boiling. Reduce heat, cover and simmer, stirring occasionally until the liquid is absorbed and the grains are cooked and fluffy. Use as you would cooked rice  – as a side dish or added to other recipes – or as a hot breakfast cereal like oatmeal. You can also find soba (buckwheat pasta) in Japanese shops.

BURGHUL (also bourghul, bur'ghul, bulghur, bulgur)

There seems to be as many spellings as there are ways to use this crushed wheat whose name, from the Persian means 'bruised grain', and that is believed to have been used in dishes for  Genghis Khan when he wanted to celebrate.

Technically burghul is wheat that has been crushed, parcooked, then dried again and should not be confused with cracked wheat which has not been cooked. It is most often used in Lebanese dishes such as kibbeh and tabbouli (again a word with many spellings) and in other Middle Eastern cuisines. Its advantage is that it is easily resoftened by covering with boiling water for a few minutes.

When making tabbouli, the next step is to add many times its quantity of chopped continental parsley, some chopped mint, a little oil, lemon juice and salt as desired, and some finely chopped tomato and spring onions. This turns it into a beautifully colourful and nutritionally balanced dish. Bulghur can also be steamed and used as a breakfast cereal, added to breads and cakes or used in stuffings. In kibbeh it is mixed with finely minced meat then formed into oval shapes that are deep-fried.

BUSH TUCKER FOODS

If you wince at the idea of witchetty grubs take heart: the Australian bush has much else to offer. 

• akudjura or bush tomatoes taste of caramel and tamarillo and suit savoury or sweet dishes (290kJ per 100g)
• kakadu plum is the world's highest source of vitamin C
• munthiree berries are apple-flavoured and delicious in pies and flans
• lemon myrtle leaves add an aromatic zing to everything from herb butter to fish dishes
• rosellas, used to make sauces and jams, are from a plant not the feathered variety
• quandongs or native peach adds a tart interest to meats and desserts (335kJ per 100g)
• macadamias are so versatile and delicious that Hawaii claimed them years ago (2500kJ per 100g)
• bunya-bunya nuts similar in size and flavour to a chestnut are fat-free and just as versatile and nutritious with 250kJ per 100g.
• wattleseed when roasted and ground can provide the basis for a cappuccino, gravy or bread
• emu is lean and low in fat, delicious when prepared properly
• kangaroo – nutritionists are hailing them as health-foods because of their low cholesterol - 625kJ per 100g
• crocodile has a delicate flavour like chicken and has 960kJ per 100g.
• paperbark keeps steamed or baked meats moist and tender
• warrigal greens are being used to make pasta or can substitute for spinach
• native pepper is an exotic ready-made accompaniment to bush or western food

Restaurants throughout the country are now starting to use natural bush foods as part of their regular ingredients and soon no one will think twice about whether something is indigenous or not.
Our rivers yield freshwater crayfish such as marron and yabbies and the oceans and bays surrounding Australia are full of fascinating fish and crustaceans such as:

• oysters
• Balmain and Moreton Bay bugs
• crab
• lobsters
• scampi
• octopus
• mussels
• a huge variety of fish.

They may not be strictly 'bush' tucker, but many are uniquely Australian.