KELP

Kelp, a type of seaweed, enjoyed a small amount of popularity amongst vegetarians until 1984 when it was banned because tests had found it to contain arsenic. Probably the oldest crop known, harvested by seaside-living Romans, Greeks and Chinese, it was used medicinally as well as on the table and agriculturally. Processed kelp is known as kombu to the Japanese. Formerly kelp was available in tablets as well as a powdered or granular form. It was used to substitute for salt and to add flavour to many dishes, and it also provided an additional source of iodine essential for the proper function of the thyroid, vitamin B12 and other vitamins.

KIWIFRUIT (or Chinese Gooseberries)

This soft and furry egg-shaped fruit have grown in China for centuries and were exported to most other countries but it took some enterprising New Zealanders in l940 to rename them kiwi fruit and corner an entire market. Kiwi fruit is a good source of potassium  and chromium, said to be useful in the management of diabetes. One medium fruit contains all the vitamin C you need for a day. The brilliant green flesh is a beautiful addition to fruit salads, cheese platters and desserts, and is still sometimes used to accent meat dishes, although this seventies fad has largely passed. In season in autumn and winter, the fruit should be allowed to ripen at room temperature and then refrigerated until use. Serve peeled and sliced, or halved to scoop from the skin with a teaspoon. If you want to use it in a jellied dish, cook it first as, like pawpaw and pineapple it contains enzymes that will break down the gelling action.

LAMB

Lamb was so adored by Lord Lucan that he had lamb cutlets every day en gelee in summer, yet many people in USA either detest it or have never eaten it. They find the fatty smell is offensive, yet last year each Australian apparently consumed almost 11.5 kg of it. Mutton, lamb's grown-up sibling (actually any sheep over 18 months old) accounted for another 9kg, so while Australia may not 'ride on the sheep's back' any more, it is still  finding a place in our stomachs. Today's concern with a lowered-fat diet has caused the meat industry to undertake revised breeding programmes and butchering techniques so that 'trim lamb' now has 6-10 % fat compared to 20% or more previously. Lamb, like any meat should be stored in the coldest part of the refrigerator, loosely wrapped to let air circulate. All meat should be allowed to 'rest' for a few minutes after cooking, under a tent of aluminium foil. Frozen meat should not be refrozen after thawing without first being cooked as harmful bacteria can multiply, causing potential severe illness. Classic herbs that accent lamb best are mint (often used to make a sweet vinegar sauce) and rosemary.

LECITHIN

This was one of the 'wonder foods' of a decade or so ago, thought to lower cholesterol. Lecithin is a derivative of soya beans, but is also found in egg yolks, cold-pressed oils, nuts, legumes and wheatgerm. It is widely used commercially as it is an excellent emulsifier. It is available in granules and powder but recent research indicates that its addition to the diet, while not harmful, is of no real nutritional or health benefit.

LEEK

Nero ate these, we are told, to improve his voice. Whether it improved his fiddling or not, we don't know but early Welsh soldiers wore them  when fighting the Saxon invaders in AD33. Obviously they were successful because the leek is still the symbol of Wales.  Others put them  in their thatched roofs to protect the house from lightning strike. The name is believed to come from 'loch', a medicine that can be licked to cure a sore throat. In cooking, their biggest drawback is that the long leaves can trap grit. To clean properly, cut the stems in quarters and then rinse thoroughly upside down so that any sand will wash away. As members of the lily family and cousins of onions, leeks may be used much as you would an onion, although they are milder and will not make you cry. Best in winter and a great way to get your vitamin C, leeks can be prepared a number of ways – chopped and sauteed as the basis of a mild soup, baked whole, or in quiches.

LEMON

Lemon thins the blood, states an old wives' tale. The Romans however believed it could serve as a poison antidote, and even today some believe that lemon juice will dissolve a fishbone if it is caught in the throat. Lemonade is not new. It was actually first made in l603 in Paris and today is probably the world's favourite soft drink – after Coca Cola. Lemons are best in autumn, ready for winter when their excellent vitamin C can help fight colds and their juice mixed with honey in hot water is a standard cold relief. Lemons add a fresh bright flavour to cakes, biscuits, sauces, meat dishes, fish, many fruits and drinks. The juice is a natural bleach, capable of removing stains from fingers, but  should only be added just before serving to green vegetables, otherwise they will lose their bright colour. When grating the rind for zest, do not grate into the white pith as this is bitter and will spoil the result. If both the rind and the juice is needed, grate the rind first from the whole fruit, then halve and juice the lemon. Lemons keep well for a few days at room temperature. If you need to keep them longer, rub the skins with vaseline.

LENTILS

Lentils are believed to be the main ingredient in the 'pottage' that Jacob gave to Esau. Whatever colour the lentils were, we do know that Esau saw red when he realised how easily he had been duped into parting with his inheritance! Religion had another hand in the history of the lentil. They were first introduced into USA by a German Seventh-day Adventist pastor who gave some to a farmer to plant. A Hindu proverb states adamantly: 'Rice is good, but lentils are my life'. Signs of their use have been discovered as long ago as 6750BC in Iraq, but in Scotland today they are known as 'Scottish cereal'. Lentils have been called 'beans without the bother' for they contain much the same nutrients – fibre. protein, B vitamins and minerals – but they are quicker and less trouble to cook. Just cover l cup brown (sometimes called green) lentils with 4 cups water, bring to the boil, then reduce heat, cover lightly and simmer for 30 minutes or until soft. Red lentils need even less time and are often ready in around 20 minutes. They are much softer and turn to a mush which can be ideal for some soups, patties and savoury dishes. Lentils are the basis of the side dish, dhal, used extensively in Indian cookery and, like most legumes, form a complete protein (actually a cup of cooked lentils has more protein than a serving of beef) when served with grains or other protein foods.

LETTUCE (and Salad Greens)

Lettuce  was given the thumbs up by Hippocrates who told the Greeks it was good for them. It was Adonis' favourite plant, and although some thought it possessed narcotic properties, lettuce was used for relaxing the bowels in ancient Rome. Its name comes from the Latin and means milk - because of the white sap of the stem – and the name of its major chemical lactucin echoes this. Lettuce is said to have a calming effect on the body, so much so that if you can eat several heads of it you may become euphoric. Perhaps this is why rabbits always seem so happy....or is it why they breed so often? For years Australians only ate iceberg lettuce, but recently new types such as cos (called romaine in USA and the staple ingredient of Caesar salad) mignonette, oakleaf, the bitter red radicchio and delicate butterhead lettuce  have become very popular. More recently leafy greens such as rocket (arugula), various types of endive (witloof or chicory), lamb's lettuce and dandelion have been sold in market, and mesclun (a French word meaning mixture) is now very popular in restaurants. Mesclun may contain several greens including mizuna, watercress, beetroot tops or young spinach as well as herbs such as coriander, chervil and parsley. As with any other green leafy vegetable, the darker the better is the best nutritional bet

LIMES

Some early mariners intent on avoiding scurvy – often more to be feared than pirates – ate limes, a good source of vitamin C, and earned the nickname 'limeys'. Very similar to lemons, limes have green skins and pale green flesh and a delicate flavour that works well in Tahitian, Caribbean, Thai and fish dishes. The colour adds an accent to pie fillings or drinks as well, but could hardly be further in flavour from the sickeningly bright green 'lime' cordials and flavourings. As with all citrus fruits, they are an excellent source of vitamin C and store well for a short time at room temperature and longer in the fridge.

LYCHEES (sometimes spelled litchee or lichee)

It is said that one exiled Chinese poet ate 300 a day, which for many of us might be a year's supply. Two thirds of a cup of fresh fruit contains a day's quota of vitamin C, even though lychees are very sweet. Canned lychees lack much of their vitamin and are usually in a heavy sugary syrup. Similar in flavour and appearance to longans and  rambutans, lychees are an exotic addition to cheese platters or fruit bowls, although they are sometimes used in Chinese cookery with poultry and savoury dishes. They may be stuffed with chopped crystallised ginger or nuts and dipped in melted chocolate or carob for a delicious after-dinner treat.

MALT

Maltose is the sugar that is produced when the starch of barley or wheat is broken down, as in the sprouting process. This sweet substance is used extensively in commercial baked goods, breakfast cereals, confectionery and the brewing industry. Malt is a good source of iron and also contains zinc and niacin. It can be spread on bread or used with water as a drink. Malt powder adds flavour and some nutrition to milkshakes. Malt vinegar is brown due to the presence of malted barley.

MANDARINS (or Tangerines)

Like most other citrus fruit, mandarins are at their peak in winter and are excellent because of their high vitamin C content. Called tangerines in the US, mandarins are best when they are small with a  loose skin. Their advantage is that they are easy to peel and eat as even though they are juicy, the segments separate easily. They are not as good as oranges and lemons for juicing, but make good marmalade.

MANGO

Mangoes  are mentioned in Indian legends from 2000BC, and no wonder - there are 500 known varieties. It is also no wonder that eating them is such a relaxing experience - they have been found to contain a substance similar to chemicals used to treat depression. The northern Australian climate is ideal for growing mangoes, so now these tropical delights are available for several months through summer. Late season Queensland mangoes have a meatier, less sweet flavour that teams well with seafood, although all mangoes can be used in a variety of ways: pureed in icecreams and sorbets or drinks, sliced in salads and fruit compotes, cooked lightly in fish and chicken dishes or Asian stirfries. The colour is a give-away. This fruit is loaded with vitamin A, (one can supply a day's requirements as well as vitamin C) yet the best bonus is that such a decadently sweet fruit is low in kilojoules - just 425kJ in a medium mango. To eat cut off the cheeks (sides) and score into squares with a sharp knife. Push the skin up with your thumbs to turn inside out and nibble off the cubes, or peel completely and put corn-holders into the ends to eat cleanly.

MARZIPAN

You might have thought that this is just an adult sort of playdough, but marzipan is said to be an excellent source of phosphorus, iron and vitamin E due, no doubt, to the high proportion of almond meal it contains. At 930kJ per 50g it is not a health-food though, so it should be used sparingly like any other concentrated sweet food. Marzipan is not a new food having been seen on tables  from at least the 16th century. Today's versions are used mostly for modelling cake decorations and in breads and confectionery. It is still popular throughout much of Europe and there is even a marzipan museum in Toledo, Spain. You may make your own with sugar syrup, egg white, almond meal and almond essence, although most people prefer to buy it ready-made.

MAYONNAISE

Good mayonnaise, they say, needs four people to make it, a Spanish proverb says: 'A spend-thrift for oil, a miser for vinegar, a wise person  for salt and a madman to mix it all'. Classic recipes rely heavily on oil and even commercial versions may contain as much as 75% fat and yield around 600kJ per tablespoon. If you are concerned about too much fat in your diet, better to search for the low-fat or 'free' varieties that often have no cholesterol as well as less sodium, and weigh-in at around 12-15% fat. There are of course alternatives to mayonnaise such as various 'lite' dressings and vinaigrettes or homemade recipes using lemon juice and herbs.